There is a vegetable-forward, chef-driven, twelve seat contemporary restaurant serving a seasonal tasting menu available only by reservation, with one seating per night / three days per week one block away from my new house. Who said leaving Williamsburgia would mean I’d be distanced from the restaurant scene?

In 2008, I stopped watching the Food Network entirely. Mario Batali, who I believe was cooking the best food in the history of the network, left Iron Chef America (to get nerdy, I’d argue his Parmigiano-Reggiano battle against Andrew Carmellini was the channel’s single best hour of programming ever. Batali served pasta in a wheel of cheese!), and I preferred the culinary shows on other networks, like Bravo’s Top Chef and Bourdain’s Travel Channel series, No Reservations. Most important, I had graduated college and was living in Brooklyn, in the middle of what would become a culinary revolution. I wanted to eat at and learn about the city’s restaurants, and the New York–based Food Network, despite its proximity, was indifferent. Blogs weren’t. Food Network didn’t care about Momofuku’s fried chicken, but Grub Street offered me this very important blog post on the matter that I remember reading and rereading and eventually reciting to anyone who would listen.
Jesse David Fox, New York Magazine’s Vulture….and every other fresh food eater like me, who also moved to Brooklyn in 2008 during the nascent wave of the No Reservations Generation, devouring every Grub Street story as voraciously as we consumed Momofuku’s pork buns.